| EMERGING people

EMERGING will be a new plan to send out to the world while rooms support the discovery and training of new creators. The audition will be stricter than usual and it will be a narrow gate, but the exhibition fee to rooms is free. It is a plan to walk with creators aiming for the world with an aggressive attitude.

Overwhelm others with high degree of perfection

New brand from Tokyo

SARTOGRAPH

The brand is a symbol of the community

 

"SARTOGRAPH" says he doesn't want to show the designer too much. Mr. Nakano, a designer and creative director, was a young man with a clean and clear atmosphere. His first impression fits perfectly with his work. Why hide himself when he should be the most suitable icon for the brand?

"It's common for a brand to have a designer face, but I think of the brand as a community of all the people involved in this outfit. And, for example, the community centered on the clothes of "SARTOGRAPH", including the creators who collaborate, that is "SARTOGRAPH" as a brand. "

 

As a member of the community, Mr. Nakano has a clear image of someone who wants to wear "SARTOGRAPH". "People in the creative profession in their 20s and 40s, such as those close to me, my friends when I was studying at university, especially the artists and designers I met when I was in London. What kind of clothes do they wear? I'm thinking of being able to propose what I want to do, taking into consideration their lifestyle. "

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What was cultivated in London is a stable attitude

 

The keyword London has a great meaning in Mr. Nakano's creation. When he was a junior high and high school student, he became interested in Western painting and went to Doshisha University. Mr. Nakano devoted himself to fashion research in an environment where he learned a wide range of beauty such as art and design.

 

"I was doing a club activity to make clothes, and I was doing a fashion show there. In that, I came to feel that I wanted to do fashion in earnest."

 

At that time, Antwerp and Newyork were also hot, but he studied abroad in St. Martins, London, which produced many of his favorite designers. What I learned there was to "specialize in what I like" and to do so "think thoroughly about what I like".

 

"There were many challenges, the deadline was severe, and many people were shaken off, so I was able to make an effort because it was what I wanted to do. However, I have to establish myself as much as I can learn freely. I couldn't continue very much. My skills, mentality and way of thinking were very well trained in London. "

I want to use materials with a cultural background

This collection combines traditional tailoring techniques with workwear. Furthermore, the material is wool, which is often used in tailoring, and denim, which is a typical material for workwear, to develop a minimal style.

 

When creating a collection, Mr. Nakano does not draw the design drawings of all the works and decide the overall picture of the collection before making clothes, but picks up the materials in parallel with drawing the design drawings. To embark on. He says he will not change the theme of the collection he initially decided on, but it is not uncommon for him to change other designs he was thinking of, inspired by the work he finished earlier. The reason why there is a lot of black is that Mr. Nakano himself uses black clothes on a regular basis.

 

"The basic color palette is black, gray, beige, white. This is the same. This time I use blue denim and sky blue derived from it. Regardless of the tailoring technique, denim fabric Anyway, I am fascinated by the history and the depth of the cultural background. "

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I want to line up at Dover Street Market

At the exhibition of rooms41, the person who actually picked up the clothes of "SARTOGRAPH" left many positive comments such as "beautiful", "cooler to wear", and "feels good".

 

"Because it's my first year, the first challenge is to raise awareness. In that respect, it was a great opportunity to present my collection in a very privileged space called EMERGING in rooms. Thanks to that, We were able to make a wide range of connections by seeing not only many press people but also fashion people who come to the event and people from other industries.

Eventually, I would like to grow the brand, including relationships with myself and those around me, so that it will become a brand that will be handled at select shops such as Dover Street Market and department stores at Isetan Shinjuku. There are still a lot of challenges, but there is a deadline for the next exhibition in front of me, so I will move my hands anyway. "

Q  Favorite brand?

 

Martin Margiela in the 90's and early 2000's, Helmut Lang in the 90's, Yohji Yamamoto and Comme des Garcons in Japan.

Q  How to choose when buying clothes?


Obviously, the first thing to do is whether it suits you. We also emphasize the quality of sewing and fabrics.

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BRAND PROFILE

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SARTOGRAPH

Inaugurated in Tokyo in 2020. With the aim of giving creativity to the wearer, the brand philosophy is'Empowering Creatives'. The source of inspiration is the style of people engaged in the arts and design fields that designers met while living in London. Based on tailoring technology, we add workwear elements to provide garments with a contemporary and minimalist design.

【profile】
Completed Shinsuke Nakano / Central Saint Martins MA Womenswear. While attending school, he received full support from the Sarabande Foundation of Alexander McQueen, who is judged by Andrew Bolton of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, and also works as a residence designer for the foundation. In the doctoral course, he has been selected for the Agency for Cultural Affairs' Overseas Training Program for Emerging Artists and is conducting research on tailoring technology as a government-sponsored international student.